Chianalea di Scilla: the little Venice of Calabria

Did you know that in Calabria there is a fishing village called "Little Venice"?

It is Chianalea di Scilla, a stone's throw from Reggio Calabria, along the beautiful Costa Viola.

Chianalea, a fishing district in the municipality of Scilla, is a little gem that cannot be missed by anyone visiting Calabria in the summer.

The village of Chianalea

One of the most romantic and picturesque seaside villages in Tyrrhenian Calabria, Chianalea di Scilla owes its name to the place-name "Piano della Galea", with reference to the ancient boat used for swordfish fishing, a local delicacy that must be absolutely tasted.

Others trace the name Chianalea back to the word "canalea", directly linked to the fundamental characteristic of the village: the presence of canals and inlets of sea water separating the dwellings, where fishermen leave their boats moored, just like a "little Venice".

Another peculiarity of Chianalea are the fish restaurants, not only because of the prestige of the local cuisine, which combines swordfish with sea urchins and all the specialities of freshly caught raw fish, but because of their highly original structure.

Almost all of Chianalea's eateries are built on wooden platforms immersed in the water, like real stilts, accessible by sea from the same fishermen who supply them with the delicious raw material. If, on the other hand, you are a lover of street food to eat while strolling, you can turn to one of the "cult" kiosks serving the typical sword sandwich.

What to see in Chianalea

What to see in Chianalea on a tour of the alleyways? So many "Instagrammable" views!  

From the panoramic views over the Tyrrhenian Sea to the little square at the wharf, the old slipway known as "U scàru", overlooked by the beautiful Palazzo Scategna, with a double row of square stone balconies and, nearby, Villa Zagari, in Eclectic style.

Other features to admire and photograph are the fountains in Chianalea: the Ruffo Fountain (16th century) with the coat of arms of the family to which the Scilla Castle of the same name still belongs, on the panoramic cliff, one of the best-preserved castles in Calabria; the Three Canals Fountain (1610), decorated with masks and friezes, and Il Canalello (or San Clemente). 

Scilla and Chianalea

How are Scilla and Chianalea connected?

The fishing village is reunited with the town of Scilla through the passage leading to Marina Grande, the town's main beach, on which bathing establishments, bars and long stretches of freely accessible sandy shore alternate.

One of the most famous views of Scilla and the whole of Calabria can be enjoyed from this beach: the Ruffo Castle seen from below, which stands imposingly on its cliff, guarding against the ancient Saracen raids, incorporating the present-day Scilla Lighthouse.

From here, after a stroll along the Seafront and a visit to the Church of the Spirito Santo, a FAI site, one climbs the characteristic steps to reach the historic centre, in a panoramic position.

A veritable terrace overlooking the sea, Scilla offers a view from above over the village of Chianalea and a scenery that sweeps as far as Sicily and the Aeolian Islands. 

At the centre of the Belvedere in Piazza San Rocco, also known as "U facciatùri", stands the undisputed queen of the place. She who gives her name to this legendary half of the Strait of Messina (also known as the Scilleo Promontory): the Statue of Scylla, a work by Reggio Calabria sculptor Francesco Triglia, depicted as a sea monster interacting with the opposite Cariddi, on the Sicilian shore.

The square and the church facing it are named after San Rocco, patron saint of Scilla and Chianalea, to whom one of the most important religious festivals on the coast is dedicated in August.