Scirubetta: the oldest form of Calabrian ice cream

Thanks to the now famous song L'albero delle noci by Brunori Sas, the Calabrian scirubetta, a poor dessert of ancient origins, has entered the homes of Italians, becoming nationally popular.

The scirubetta, a primitive form of ice cream made from snow, tells a fascinating story and wins everyone over with its fresh, sweet flavour, declined in different local variations.

Let's taste the Calabrian scirubetta together, before it melts!

The history of the Calabrian ‘’scirubetta‘’ has ancient origins and is intertwined with those of the Mediterranean peoples who, over the centuries, have crossed and ruled Calabria. In fact, the name ‘’scirubetta‘’ seems to derive from the Arabic word ‘’sharbat‘’, which indicates precisely a cold dessert: a sort of sorbet made with sweet, fruity syrups. It is not certain whether the Calabrian scirubetta is entirely of Arab origin, imported by the conquerors who left numerous customs in the region's gastronomy, or whether it was already in use before their arrival (which is around the 9th century) and from the Arabs it only inherited the name.

What is certain is that the scirubetta is still today the winter ice cream of the Calabrians, who wait for the first snow to treat themselves to this original spoon dessert. Traditionally linked to the presence of the ancient mountain snowfields, the scirubetta originated from the need to store snow in frozen blocks throughout the year, so that it could be used in summer to cool food and drink in times when modern refrigeration systems were not yet in use. 

The snow was stored in special pits dug in the mountains or in natural cavities, according to a practice that can be found throughout the region, from north to south, in the three national parks (Pollino, Sila and Aspromonte) and in the Serre Regional Park, as well as in numerous reserves. After being pressed into a single block, the snow was covered with leaves, straw and wood to create the necessary thermal insulation. In the summer, when the snow was used to cool food in the villages and especially in the marinas, the old iceboxes were stormed and emptied: when it had to be taken away, care was taken to choose the cleanest, absolutely edible snow. The art of the ‘’nivàru‘’ (snowman) who transported snow throughout the region was widespread and generated a real trade. Some snowfields were also found in towns and villages, dug in the basements of buildings, if not in small pits for private use.

The custom of making ice cream directly from snow derives precisely from this preservation practice. Handed down to the present day, the scirubetta survives throughout Calabria with its local variations. Obviously, today it is made from fresh, soft snow, to which various sweet syrups are added, depending on the taste of the local custom. These range from the classic lemon, orange and coffee scirubetta, according to a more contemporary taste that associates it with sorbet, to the traditional scirubetta, which in ancient times was easier to combine with honey or must, the famous ‘’wine scirubetta‘’. Bolder variants also include chocolate and aniseed scirubetta.

There is evidence of this tasty ice cream dating back to August 1847, when the famous English writer and traveller on the Grand Tour, Edward Lear, recounted in his "Diary of a walking tour" that he had tasted a thirst-quenching ‘’snow and wine sorbet‘’ several times and in different parts of Calabria.

If Edward Lear wasn't enough, Cosenza-based singer-songwriter Dario Brunori, aka Brunori Sas, also reminds us that the Calabrian scirubetta is a product that strongly identifies this land, and he does so with a subtle reference in the lyrics of the song he brought to Sanremo 2025, entitled L'albero delle noci:

I grew up in a cruel land where snow mixes with honey....

Well, the snow that mixes with honey to sweeten the bitterness of life is precisely the scirubetta! To enjoy it, you need to visit Calabria in winter, planning a nice skiing holiday in the Calabrian ski resorts of Sila or Aspromonte.