Journey to Guardia Piemontese, among the Occitans of Calabria

Have you ever heard of the Occitans of Calabria?

They are one of three ethnolinguistic minorities in the region, together with the Arbëreshë (Italo-Albanian) and the Grecanici (speakers of the ancient Greek of Calabria).

As has often happened throughout history up to the present day, various communities and minorities from distant ethnic groups have found hospitality and refuge from waves of persecution in Calabria.

Among these, the Occitans in Calabria represent a rare expression of Romance language transplanted in the far south.

Let us discover their history, rites and language together.  

The province of Cosenza is the last Occitan enclave in southern Italy.

Who are the Occitans of Calabria? Let's get to know them up close!

Originating in the French region of the same name (Occitania) of the Occitan language (or lingua d'òc, languedoc), this cultural minority has given expression to very particular forms of medieval "trobatorica" poetry in much of central Europe, accompanied by centuries-old musical traditions and folk dances.

What drove the Occitans to Calabria? A violent persecution against them, which began in the first half of the 13th century, when the community was declared heretical for adhering to the Waldensian rite. The pope of the time ordered a crusade (the so-called Albigensian Crusade) that lasted a long time and forced the minority to emigrate, taking refuge mainly in Piedmont.

The second act of the Occitan massacre (and of their language, banned or reduced to a mere dialect) took place in the 16th century, when the Savoys themselves persecuted the Waldensians and forced them to migrate again.

It would be the Calabrian feudal lords of the province of Cosenza who would offer them hospitality, except that they would be guilty of yet another massacre: the Massacre of the Waldensians in 1561.

The first centre inhabited by the Occitans in Calabria was the Borgo degli Ultramontani, near Montalto Uffugo, followed by the foundation of the centres of San Sisto, Argentine, La Rocca, Vaccarizzo, Saint-Vincent and Guardia Piemontese.

Guardia Piemontese is still considered the small Waldensian capital of the Occitans of Calabria.

Guardia Piemontese is the last Occitan outpost in terms of language, customs and traditions, a must-visit during a trip to Calabria.

It was here that survivors of the persecutions of Bobbio Pellice (TO) found refuge. They devoted themselves to agriculture and pastoralism, cultivating olive groves, vineyards, cotton and hemp plantations and raising silkworms. 

In spite of the ban on speaking the Occitan language and the strong conditioning they suffered, today the Waldensians of Guardia Piemontese (La Gàrdia), strive to keep their identity alive, i.e., for the survival of the ancient language (taught in primary schools) and the preservation of the precious typical costumes, woven in gold and vibrant colours, as well as the Protestant ritual festivities.

What to visit in Guardia Piemontese, the town of the Occitans of Calabria?

Of course, its enchanting marina, part of the upper Tyrrhenian coast characterised by the unmistakable Guardia Tower (hence the name), an 11th-century bulwark against attacks by Saracen pirates, which can be visited today.

The two main museums dedicated to the community, the Occitan Multimedia Museum and the Waldensian Museum, are not-to-be-missed stops for learning about the Occitans in Calabria.

The first tells the story of Occitan history and culture in Europe and through videos and reports (multimedia route), combined with the consultation of an extensive library; the second, housed in the "Giovan Luigi Pascale" Culture Centre near the so-called Blood Gate, focuses on the small Waldensian community of Guardia Piemontese and the history of the massacre.

A must for anyone visiting this area is a relaxation and wellness session at the renowned Luigiane Thermal Baths (between the municipalities of Guardia Piemontese and Acquappesa).

Located in the wide valley of the Bagni river, the thermal baths have been known and frequented since antiquity, as testified by Pliny the Elder, and today represent one of the region's most popular curative and cosmetic centres.