Roghudi Vecchio: ghost town on the slopes of Aspromonte

When we talk about "ghost towns" in Calabria, we are almost always referring to small inland villages suspended in time, inhabited only by legends. One of these, Roghudi (or Roghudi Vecchio), on the slopes of Aspromonte in the province of Reggio Calabria, is a perfect blend of history, fantasy and breathtaking views.

It is said that in the valley where Roghudi, the ghost town, stands, the cries of children who once slipped down the vertiginous cliff to which the houses cling still echo.

Today, Roghudi is not only a place of precious memories to be preserved, among the villages of the Greek ethnolinguistic minority, but also an open-air film set and an excellent starting point for sporting activities in the Aspromonte National Park.

The history of Roghudi, now known as Roghudi Vecchio, is linked to the centuries-old rhythms of nature which, here in the Amendolea Valley at the foot of the Aspromonte massif, have shaped the rocks and houses. Not far from Roghudi Vecchio lies the tiny hamlet of Ghorìo, which is also uninhabited. These villages once spoke Greek, the ancient Greek of Calabria, which evokes words from the East even in its place names: Roghudi, for example, derives from 'ruhàdi' ('windy place'), referring to the constant breeze that sweeps across the cliff.    

The historical period of Roghudi's habitation spans from 1050, the date of the village's foundation, to its sad end between 1971 and 1973, when it was declared completely uninhabitable following two severe floods. From that moment on, the population of Roghudi was distributed among the neighbouring villages, particularly on the western outskirts of the municipality of Melito di Porto Salvo, where the municipal enclave known as Roghudi Nuovo was established.

What remains of Roghudi Vecchio is a scene straight out of a film! Among the ghosts and legends of Roghudi, some sound quite macabre, but no less fascinating for that: for example, the legend of the naràda (a name that originates from the Nereids, sea nymphs from Greek mythology), the woman with mule feet who ensnares men and children on the riverbank, making them disappear forever; or the story that, in the past, mothers tied their children to hooks that can still be seen on the facades of houses to prevent them from falling into the precipice. Whether it is reality or legend, it matters little, Roghudi retains its charm even through these incredible tales.

Visiting Roghudi, a ghost town, means immersing yourself in the ancient atmosphere that still lingers among the empty houses and the small Church of San Nicola; in the bucolic world of shepherds and women who knew how to do all kinds of crafts and weave broom. A world that comes back to life along the Roghudi Pastoral Civilisation Trail: a trek to discover the small village and its surroundings. Walking the Aspromonte trails, among centuries-old woods, deep gorges and rivers, is a unique experience for all lovers of nature and the 'slow' life. Don't miss the excursion to the nearby UNESCO Geosites: the extraordinary natural geological formations that symbolise the Greek Aspromonte, such as the Rocca del Drago and the Caldaie del Latte.

Canyoning enthusiasts can practise their favourite sport among the rapids and waterfalls of the Furria stream, one of the most beloved natural treasures in the area. The Furria gorges, in the heart of the mountain, are partially accessible (up to the first three jumps), but it is advisable to reach them well equipped and accompanied by expert local guides. In the centre of the gorges, you can stop above the vertical drop or walk through the large internal cavity, carved out by natural erosion, to the exit of the gorge at the confluence of the Mangusa (another Aspromonte canyon), under a jet of water that comes from above.